| "C" catch
The most common means of securing a brooch before 1900 or so when "safety
catches" were invented. The pin connected to one side of the brooch
is threaded through a layer of the garment and rests in a "C"
shaped catch on the other side of the brooch. The "C" had no
mechanism to hold the pin in place and so the pins were usually designed
to be long enough to extend far enough beyond the end of the brooch to
weave back into the garment for security.
C-OX
A green cubic zirconia (CZ) stone.
Cable Chain
A chain made of round linked rings of uniform size. This tends to be what
most people think of when they think of the word "chain". It
is the same style of chain as the cable used to anchor large ships to
a dock.
Cabochon
From the French "caboche", meaning "knob/small dome",
a cabochon is a stone cut into the shape of a small dome in a round, oval,
rectangle, triangle, or teardrop shape without any facets. This style
is commonly used with opaque to translucent stones such as opal, moonstone,
jade and turquoise. Some transparent stones such as emeralds, amethyst
and garnet, are also sometimes fashioned as cabochons. An almandine (garnet)
cabochon is called a "carbuncle".
Cairngorm
Cairngorm is a yellow-brown type of smoky quartz that is often used in
traditional Celtic jewelry. Cairngorm is not Scottish topaz. The supply
of cairngorm is virtually exhausted, so heat-treated Brazilian amethyst
is used as a substitute in Scottish jewelry.
Calcium
A silvery-white, moderately hard metallic element which is the fifth most
abundant element comprising approximately 3% of the earth's crust, and
is a basic component of most animals and plants. It burns with a brilliant
light and occurs naturally in limestone, gypsum, and fluorite.
Calcite
Calcite (Calcium Carbonate, CaCO3) is a very common mineral that comes
in a wide variety of forms, shapes and colors. The trigonal crystals range
from translucent to transparent. Transparent calcite exhibits a double
refraction effect (when you look through the crystal, singel items are
doubled). Calcite has a hardness of 3 (most forms), a specific gravity
of about 2.7, a refractive index of 1.49 and 1.66, and a white streak.
Calibrated
A calibrated stone is one that has been cut exactly to a standard size,
i.e. 5 mm, 10 mm x 14 mm. Jewelers often purchase calibrated cabochons
or faceted stones when the design requires two or more stones of the same
exact size or when a design will be duplicated many times as in manufactured
jewelry.
Calibré Cut
Small stones cut in an oblong shape and set close together.
California ruby
A California ruby is actually a pyrope garnet (and not a ruby at all).
Calsilica
Rainbow calsilica is a newly-found, multi-colored, layered stone composed
of calcium and silica. This stone has been recently used for Zuni fetish
carvings and in some jewelry (beads and cabochon cut stones). Rainbow
calsilica was only recently found in Mexico or Northern South America
(it's origin remains mysterious). Some people theorize that this stone
formed as a result of the runoff of mining or oil-drilling chemicals,
and has only formed in the last 30 to 50 years (but this is uncertain).
Cameo
A type of jewelry in which the stone around a design is cut away leaving
the design in relief, typically against a contrasting background. Cameos
are often made of shell and coral, although hard stone cameos such as
agate, onyx, and sardonyx are more valuable. Cameos have been carved from
the Hellenistic period, and ancient motifs such as the goddess Athena
or a Baccante, (follower of Bacchus), were popular cameo subjects in Victorian
times through the 1930's. The opposite of a cameo is called "Intaglio".
Cameo habille
A cameo habille (meaning "dressed cameo" in French) is a "jewel
within a jewel," a cameo in which the subject carved in the cameo
(usually a woman) is wearing a miniature piece of jewelry (like a tiny
diamond necklace with a stone embedded in the cameo).
Camphor glass
Camphor glass is cloudy white glass that is either blown or pressed. Camphor
glass was very popular in the mid-nineteenth century and used for jewelry,
candlesticks, vases, dishes, barometers, and other pieces. Camphor glass
jewelry imitates rock crystal.
Canary diamonds
Canary diamonds are diamonds that have a deep yellow color. Diamonds are
precious, lustrous gemstones made of highly-compressed carbon; they are
one of the hardest materials known. Diamonds have a hardness of 10, a
specific gravity of 3.5, and a refractive index of 2.417 - 2.419.
Cannetille
A wirework decoration which uses coiled and twisted gold wire to achieve
a delicate scrolling effect.
Cape Amethyst
A form of Amethyst layered or striped with milky quartz.
Cape Ruby
A Cape ruby is actually a pyrope garnet (and not a ruby at all).
Carat
One of the 4 C's of diamond grading. Abbreviated "ct." and spelled
with a "c" is a measure of weight used for gemstones, (as opposed
to karat with a "K", which is a measure of the purity of a gold
alloy). One carat is equal to 1/5 of a gram (200 milligrams). Stones are
measured to the nearest hundredth of a carat. A hundredth of a carat is
also called a point. Thus a .10 carat stone can be called either 10 points,
or 1/10 of a carat. Small stones like .05, and .10ct are most often referred
to by point designations. A one carat round diamond of average proportions
is approximately 6.5mm in diameter. Note that this relationship of weight
and size is different for each family of stones. For example ruby and
sapphire are both heavier than diamond (technically, they have a higher
specific gravity, so a 1 carat ruby or sapphire is smaller in size than
a one carat diamond.)
Carbon
A non-metallic element that occurs in all organic compounds and many inorganic
compounds. Carbon is combustible and has the interesting ability to bond
with itself, as well as with many other elements.
Carbonado
A carbonardo is a rare type of opaque black diamond; they are not used
for jewels, but for items like drilling bits and abrasive wheels. They
were once thought to have been formed as a result of a comet impact 2
billion years ago, but this is no longer thought to be true. The largest
diamond ever found was a carbonardo that weighed over half a kilogram.
Carbonadoes are found in Bahia, Brazil, South America. Unlike other diamonds,
carbonadoes are not found in a crystallized form - they are found in irregular
or rounded fragments. Carbonadoes have a hardness of 10 and a specific
gravity (density) of 3.1-3.3. Diamonds have a very hard polycrystalline
carbon structure.
Carbon Spots
Diamonds are carbon that has been compressed over time. Carbon spots are
a kind of flaw, or "inclusion", found in diamonds showing as
black spots inside the clear diamond.
Carbonate
A substance treated with carbon dioxide, such as limestone.
Carbuncle
An almandine (garnet) cabochon.
Carnegie
Hattie Carnegie was a clothing and jewelry designer who produced many
beautiful costume jewelry pieces, including many figurals. Carnegie (nee
Henrietta Kanengeiser) was born in 1886 in Vienna, Austria but moved to
New York City, NY, USA around the turn of the century. She later opened
a chain of high-priced boutiques and founded Hattie Carnegie, Inc. Carnegie
jewelry is collected by many people and is marked Carnegie, Hattie Carnegie,
of HC within a diamond and a half oval. The Carnegie mark was first used
in January, 1919. Carnegie also designed hair jewelry, shoe buckles, and
jeweled cases, which were sold with the marks "Pooped Pussy Cat"
and "Pooped Poodle."
Carnelian
A translucent red or orange variety of chalcedony, sometimes banded red
and orange like an agate. Once believed to benefit the wearer's health
and love life. Most carnelian comes from Brazil, India, Siberia, and Germany.
Castellani, Fortunato
Fortunato Castellani (1793-1865) was an Italian jewelry whose work revived
the early Etruscan style of jewelry. His beautifully-made pieces had intricate
workmanship including the ancient Etruscan art of granulation and carved
gemstones. Castellani's sons carried on his work.
Casting
A means of reproducing an object by making a mold of it and pouring metal,
plaster, or some other material that sets over time into the mold. See
Centrifugal casting, Electrotype, Lost wax process, and sand casting.
Castlecliff
Castlecliff was a mark used by the Castlecliff Jewelry, Inc., New York,
NY, USA. This costume jewelry company was founded by Clifford Furst in
1945 and was in business nutil the 1970's.
Catalin
See Bakelite.
Catamore
Catamore Enterprises was a costume jewelry company in operation from about
1942 to 1981. This large, family-owned business was located in Providence,
Rhode Island. Their jewelry was sold through Sears, Roebuck and Co., JC
Penney Co., Zale Corp., and other stores. Catamore won a landmark court
case against IBM in 1975 for breech of promise in a computer services
contract. Catamore was bought by a London firm in 1981. Catamore pieces
are marked CATAMORE or John Grant Designs (this mark was first used in
1970). Jewelry by Catamore was often gold filled in 12 karat gold (marked
1/20 12kgf.) or steling silver. Many were decorated with rhinestones,
cameos, or onyx.
Cathedral Setting
A cathedral ring setting is a simple band that arches when seen from the
side (like the arches of a cathedral).
Cat's eye
Cat's eye (chatoyant chrysoberyl) is a yellow to green-yellow to gray-green
stone with a bright, pupil-like slit that seems to move slightly as the
stone is moved. Most Cat's eye is cut as cabochons to maximize the distinctive
pupil-like effect. Most cat's eye chrysoberyl is found in Brazil. Cat's
eye chrysoberyl has a hardness of 8.5. This stone is sometimes enhanced
by irradiation (this process improves the color and accentuates the stone's
asterism).
Caviness, Alice
Alice Caviness (-1983) was a clothing and costume jewelry designer who
produced high-quality pieces. She began producing pieces in the late 1940's
(after World War 2) and her company is still in operation, now headed
by Caviness' business partner, Lois Stein. The company is located in Malverne,
Long Island, New York.
CE
Common Era, or in the Christian calendar, AD, anno domini, meaning "in
the year of our Lord".
Celebrity
Celebrity is a mark of generally low- to medium-quality costume jewelry
made by a New York company. The trademark "Celebrity" is owned
by the Celebrity Jewelry Company of Philadelphia, Pennnsylvania, which
makes jewelry of gold and silver, with precious stones.
Cell Enameling
See Cloisonné.
Cellini, Benvenuto
Benvenuto Cellini (1500-1571) was the pre-eminent Italian jeweler during
the renaissance. Cellini's intricate works utilized beautifully-cast metals,
enamel, table-cut gems, and pearls
Celluloid
A plastic derived from cellulose, a natural plant fiber, first synthesized
around 1870 as a synthetic ivory. It can be cut, rolled, folded, perforated,
ironed, turned, or embossed when heated, but cannot be injected. Celluloid
is flammable and deteriorates easily if exposed to moisture. jewelry made
of celluloid was often set with rhinestones. Hair combs and other dresser
articles are still often made of celluloid today. Also called French ivory,
Ivoride, Ivorine, Ivorite, and Pyralin
Celtic jewelry
Celtic jewelry was made by the Celts in Ireland, Wales, Scotland, and
Brittany. The Celts used bronze, silver and gold in their jewelry and
stones like cairngorm and amethyst. Circular brooches with a long, hinged
pin, called penannular brooches, date from ancient times. The earliest-known
piece of Celtic jewelry is the Hunterston brooch from A.D. 700
Celtic Revival
Jewelry made during the mid-nineteenth century reflective of the styles
of jewelry used in early Ireland based on archaeological artifacts.
Center Stone
Usually a diamond, (or other gemstone), that is the prominent center piece
in a ring setting.
Centrifugal Casting
A method of casting jewelry in which molds are attached to the outside
edge of hollow tube. Metal is poured into the tube and as the tube is
spun at high speed centrifugal force pulls the molten metal into the molds.
Certification
A grading report given to a precious stone by a reputable and recognized
laboratory that defines the physical characteristics and quality rating
of a gem. See Assay and IGI
CFW
CFW is an abbreviation for cultured freshwater pearls.
Chain
A strand of linked loops, rings, or beads used for bracelets or necklaces.
Popular types of chain include: Book chain, Box, Butterfly, Byzantine,
Cable, Cuban, Curb, Figaro, Figogucci, Foxtail, Herringbone, Marina, Mariner,
Mesh, Omega, Panther link, Rolo, Rope, San Marco, Serpentine, Singapore,
and Snake. (See individual listings.)
Chalcedony
A family of colored quartz stones including agate, onyx, carnelian, cat's
eye, and jasper that commonly have a milky or waxlike luster. When chalcedony
is variegated with with spots or figures, or arranged in differently colored
layers, it is called agate; and if by reason of the thickness, color,
and arrangement of the layers it is suitable for being carved into cameos,
it is called onyx.
Champagne Diamond
A champagne diamond is a pinkish brown diamond (having a color of C2-C3).
Most champagne diamonds are mined in Western Australia (in the Argyle
Mine). The color is produced by a their low nitrogen content
Champlevé
A type of enameling in which powdered glass is placed in areas of a piece
of jewelry that have been carved away specifically for this purpose before
firing. The glass powder melts filling the carved areas with solid glass.
"C" catch
The most common means of securing a brooch before 1900 or so when "safety
catches" were invented. The pin connected to one side of the brooch
is threaded through a layer of the garment and rests in a "C"
shaped catch on the other side of the brooch. The "C" had no
mechanism to hold the pin in place and so the pins were usually designed
to be long enough to extend far enough beyond the end of the brooch to
weave back into the garment for security.
C-OX
A green cubic zirconia (CZ) stone.
Cable Chain
A chain made of round linked rings of uniform size. This tends to be what
most people think of when they think of the word "chain". It
is the same style of chain as the cable used to anchor large ships to
a dock.
Cabochon
From the French "caboche", meaning "knob/small dome",
a cabochon is a stone cut into the shape of a small dome in a round, oval,
rectangle, triangle, or teardrop shape without any facets. This style
is commonly used with opaque to translucent stones such as opal, moonstone,
jade and turquoise. Some transparent stones such as emeralds, amethyst
and garnet, are also sometimes fashioned as cabochons. An almandine (garnet)
cabochon is called a "carbuncle".
Cairngorm
Cairngorm is a yellow-brown type of smoky quartz that is often used in
traditional Celtic jewelry. Cairngorm is not Scottish topaz. The supply
of cairngorm is virtually exhausted, so heat-treated Brazilian amethyst
is used as a substitute in Scottish jewelry.
Calcium
A silvery-white, moderately hard metallic element which is the fifth most
abundant element comprising approximately 3% of the earth's crust, and
is a basic component of most animals and plants. It burns with a brilliant
light and occurs naturally in limestone, gypsum, and fluorite.
Calcite
Calcite (Calcium Carbonate, CaCO3) is a very common mineral that comes
in a wide variety of forms, shapes and colors. The trigonal crystals range
from translucent to transparent. Transparent calcite exhibits a double
refraction effect (when you look through the crystal, singel items are
doubled). Calcite has a hardness of 3 (most forms), a specific gravity
of about 2.7, a refractive index of 1.49 and 1.66, and a white streak.
Calibrated
A calibrated stone is one that has been cut exactly to a standard size,
i.e. 5 mm, 10 mm x 14 mm. Jewelers often purchase calibrated cabochons
or faceted stones when the design requires two or more stones of the same
exact size or when a design will be duplicated many times as in manufactured
jewelry.
Calibré Cut
Small stones cut in an oblong shape and set close together.
California ruby
A California ruby is actually a pyrope garnet (and not a ruby at all).
Calsilica
Rainbow calsilica is a newly-found, multi-colored, layered stone composed
of calcium and silica. This stone has been recently used for Zuni fetish
carvings and in some jewelry (beads and cabochon cut stones). Rainbow
calsilica was only recently found in Mexico or Northern South America
(it's origin remains mysterious). Some people theorize that this stone
formed as a result of the runoff of mining or oil-drilling chemicals,
and has only formed in the last 30 to 50 years (but this is uncertain).
Cameo
A type of jewelry in which the stone around a design is cut away leaving
the design in relief, typically against a contrasting background. Cameos
are often made of shell and coral, although hard stone cameos such as
agate, onyx, and sardonyx are more valuable. Cameos have been carved from
the Hellenistic period, and ancient motifs such as the goddess Athena
or a Baccante, (follower of Bacchus), were popular cameo subjects in Victorian
times through the 1930's. The opposite of a cameo is called "Intaglio".
Cameo habille
A cameo habille (meaning "dressed cameo" in French) is a "jewel
within a jewel," a cameo in which the subject carved in the cameo
(usually a woman) is wearing a miniature piece of jewelry (like a tiny
diamond necklace with a stone embedded in the cameo).
Camphor glass
Camphor glass is cloudy white glass that is either blown or pressed. Camphor
glass was very popular in the mid-nineteenth century and used for jewelry,
candlesticks, vases, dishes, barometers, and other pieces. Camphor glass
jewelry imitates rock crystal.
Canary diamonds
Canary diamonds are diamonds that have a deep yellow color. Diamonds are
precious, lustrous gemstones made of highly-compressed carbon; they are
one of the hardest materials known. Diamonds have a hardness of 10, a
specific gravity of 3.5, and a refractive index of 2.417 - 2.419.
Cannetille
A wirework decoration which uses coiled and twisted gold wire to achieve
a delicate scrolling effect.
Cape Amethyst
A form of Amethyst layered or striped with milky quartz.
Cape Ruby
A Cape ruby is actually a pyrope garnet (and not a ruby at all).
Carat
One of the 4 C's of diamond grading. Abbreviated "ct." and spelled
with a "c" is a measure of weight used for gemstones, (as opposed
to karat with a "K", which is a measure of the purity of a gold
alloy). One carat is equal to 1/5 of a gram (200 milligrams). Stones are
measured to the nearest hundredth of a carat. A hundredth of a carat is
also called a point. Thus a .10 carat stone can be called either 10 points,
or 1/10 of a carat. Small stones like .05, and .10ct are most often referred
to by point designations. A one carat round diamond of average proportions
is approximately 6.5mm in diameter. Note that this relationship of weight
and size is different for each family of stones. For example ruby and
sapphire are both heavier than diamond (technically, they have a higher
specific gravity, so a 1 carat ruby or sapphire is smaller in size than
a one carat diamond.)
Carbon
A non-metallic element that occurs in all organic compounds and many inorganic
compounds. Carbon is combustible and has the interesting ability to bond
with itself, as well as with many other elements.
Carbonado
A carbonardo is a rare type of opaque black diamond; they are not used
for jewels, but for items like drilling bits and abrasive wheels. They
were once thought to have been formed as a result of a comet impact 2
billion years ago, but this is no longer thought to be true. The largest
diamond ever found was a carbonardo that weighed over half a kilogram.
Carbonadoes are found in Bahia, Brazil, South America. Unlike other diamonds,
carbonadoes are not found in a crystallized form - they are found in irregular
or rounded fragments. Carbonadoes have a hardness of 10 and a specific
gravity (density) of 3.1-3.3. Diamonds have a very hard polycrystalline
carbon structure.
Carbon Spots
Diamonds are carbon that has been compressed over time. Carbon spots are
a kind of flaw, or "inclusion", found in diamonds showing as
black spots inside the clear diamond.
Carbonate
A substance treated with carbon dioxide, such as limestone.
Carbuncle
An almandine (garnet) cabochon.
Carnegie
Hattie Carnegie was a clothing and jewelry designer who produced many
beautiful costume jewelry pieces, including many figurals. Carnegie (nee
Henrietta Kanengeiser) was born in 1886 in Vienna, Austria but moved to
New York City, NY, USA around the turn of the century. She later opened
a chain of high-priced boutiques and founded Hattie Carnegie, Inc. Carnegie
jewelry is collected by many people and is marked Carnegie, Hattie Carnegie,
of HC within a diamond and a half oval. The Carnegie mark was first used
in January, 1919. Carnegie also designed hair jewelry, shoe buckles, and
jeweled cases, which were sold with the marks "Pooped Pussy Cat"
and "Pooped Poodle."
Carnelian
A translucent red or orange variety of chalcedony, sometimes banded red
and orange like an agate. Once believed to benefit the wearer's health
and love life. Most carnelian comes from Brazil, India, Siberia, and Germany.
Castellani, Fortunato
Fortunato Castellani (1793-1865) was an Italian jewelry whose work revived
the early Etruscan style of jewelry. His beautifully-made pieces had intricate
workmanship including the ancient Etruscan art of granulation and carved
gemstones. Castellani's sons carried on his work.
Casting
A means of reproducing an object by making a mold of it and pouring metal,
plaster, or some other material that sets over time into the mold. See
Centrifugal casting, Electrotype, Lost wax process, and sand casting.
Castlecliff
Castlecliff was a mark used by the Castlecliff Jewelry, Inc., New York,
NY, USA. This costume jewelry company was founded by Clifford Furst in
1945 and was in business nutil the 1970's.
Catalin
See Bakelite.
Catamore
Catamore Enterprises was a costume jewelry company in operation from about
1942 to 1981. This large, family-owned business was located in Providence,
Rhode Island. Their jewelry was sold through Sears, Roebuck and Co., JC
Penney Co., Zale Corp., and other stores. Catamore won a landmark court
case against IBM in 1975 for breech of promise in a computer services
contract. Catamore was bought by a London firm in 1981. Catamore pieces
are marked CATAMORE or John Grant Designs (this mark was first used in
1970). Jewelry by Catamore was often gold filled in 12 karat gold (marked
1/20 12kgf.) or steling silver. Many were decorated with rhinestones,
cameos, or onyx.
Cathedral Setting
A cathedral ring setting is a simple band that arches when seen from the
side (like the arches of a cathedral).
Cat's eye
Cat's eye (chatoyant chrysoberyl) is a yellow to green-yellow to gray-green
stone with a bright, pupil-like slit that seems to move slightly as the
stone is moved. Most Cat's eye is cut as cabochons to maximize the distinctive
pupil-like effect. Most cat's eye chrysoberyl is found in Brazil. Cat's
eye chrysoberyl has a hardness of 8.5. This stone is sometimes enhanced
by irradiation (this process improves the color and accentuates the stone's
asterism).
Caviness, Alice
Alice Caviness (-1983) was a clothing and costume jewelry designer who
produced high-quality pieces. She began producing pieces in the late 1940's
(after World War 2) and her company is still in operation, now headed
by Caviness' business partner, Lois Stein. The company is located in Malverne,
Long Island, New York.
CE
Common Era, or in the Christian calendar, AD, anno domini, meaning "in
the year of our Lord".
Celebrity
Celebrity is a mark of generally low- to medium-quality costume jewelry
made by a New York company. The trademark "Celebrity" is owned
by the Celebrity Jewelry Company of Philadelphia, Pennnsylvania, which
makes jewelry of gold and silver, with precious stones.
Cell Enameling
See Cloisonné.
Cellini, Benvenuto
Benvenuto Cellini (1500-1571) was the pre-eminent Italian jeweler during
the renaissance. Cellini's intricate works utilized beautifully-cast metals,
enamel, table-cut gems, and pearls
Celluloid
A plastic derived from cellulose, a natural plant fiber, first synthesized
around 1870 as a synthetic ivory. It can be cut, rolled, folded, perforated,
ironed, turned, or embossed when heated, but cannot be injected. Celluloid
is flammable and deteriorates easily if exposed to moisture. jewelry made
of celluloid was often set with rhinestones. Hair combs and other dresser
articles are still often made of celluloid today. Also called French ivory,
Ivoride, Ivorine, Ivorite, and Pyralin
Celtic jewelry
Celtic jewelry was made by the Celts in Ireland, Wales, Scotland, and
Brittany. The Celts used bronze, silver and gold in their jewelry and
stones like cairngorm and amethyst. Circular brooches with a long, hinged
pin, called penannular brooches, date from ancient times. The earliest-known
piece of Celtic jewelry is the Hunterston brooch from A.D. 700
Celtic Revival
Jewelry made during the mid-nineteenth century reflective of the styles
of jewelry used in early Ireland based on archaeological artifacts.
Center Stone
Usually a diamond, (or other gemstone), that is the prominent center piece
in a ring setting.
Centrifugal Casting
A method of casting jewelry in which molds are attached to the outside
edge of hollow tube. Metal is poured into the tube and as the tube is
spun at high speed centrifugal force pulls the molten metal into the molds.
Certification
A grading report given to a precious stone by a reputable and recognized
laboratory that defines the physical characteristics and quality rating
of a gem. See Assay and IGI
CFW
CFW is an abbreviation for cultured freshwater pearls.
Chain
A strand of linked loops, rings, or beads used for bracelets or necklaces.
Popular types of chain include: Book chain, Box, Butterfly, Byzantine,
Cable, Cuban, Curb, Figaro, Figogucci, Foxtail, Herringbone, Marina, Mariner,
Mesh, Omega, Panther link, Rolo, Rope, San Marco, Serpentine, Singapore,
and Snake. (See individual listings.)
Chalcedony
A family of colored quartz stones including agate, onyx, carnelian, cat's
eye, and jasper that commonly have a milky or waxlike luster. When chalcedony
is variegated with with spots or figures, or arranged in differently colored
layers, it is called agate; and if by reason of the thickness, color,
and arrangement of the layers it is suitable for being carved into cameos,
it is called onyx.
Champagne Diamond
A champagne diamond is a pinkish brown diamond (having a color of C2-C3).
Most champagne diamonds are mined in Western Australia (in the Argyle
Mine). The color is produced by a their low nitrogen content
Champlevé
A type of enameling in which powdered glass is placed in areas of a piece
of jewelry that have been carved away specifically for this purpose before
firing. The glass powder melts filling the carved areas with solid glass.
Chandelier Earring
An earring with a drop suspended like a chandelier. Also called a "Drop
Earring" or "Dangle Earring".
Channel Inlay
A design similar to enameling in which stones, rather than melted plastic
or glass, are cut to shape and set into the recesses of a piece of jewelry.
Commonly seen with jewelry using mother of pearl and turquoise.
Channel Set
A style of setting in which a number of uniformly sized small stones,
usually of the round cut, princess cut or baguette shapes, are set side
by side in a grooved channel. Unlike most setting methods the stones are
not secured individually with prongs and there is no metal visible between
the stones.
Chaplet
A garland, wreath, or ornamented band worn around the head. Chaplets are
made of metal with repoussé decoration or embellished with gemstones
and pearls.
Charel
Charel is a mark of relatively rare, medium-quality costume jewelry made
by the Charel Jewelry Company, Inc. of Brooklyn, New York. Many Charel
pieces have pastel-colored plastic stones on plated metal.
Charm
A pendant or trinket worn on a bracelet, earring or necklace.
Charm Bracelet
A chain link bracelet with charms attached to it. (It's not a charm bracelet
until it has charms attached.)
Charm Ring
A ring with a charm attached to the ring band.
Charoite
Charoite is a fairly recent discovery found in Russia in 1978 in the Murun
mountains in Yakutia, near the Charo River. This is the only known location
for this rare mineral.
It ranges in color from a light lilac to a deep purple and can be mottled
with gray, white and black inclusions. The chatoyant variety in a bright
deep purple, is usually considered more valuable than the non-chatoyant
variety although both are used in jewelry and compliment a number of other
stones.
Chasing
A method of decorating the front, (or outside), of metal objects by making
indentations using shaped punches and a chasing hammer. The opposite of
chasing is repoussé.
Chatelaine
French for "Lady of the House", a chatelaine is an ornamental
chain or pin worn at a woman's waist from which dangle keys, trinkets,
scissors, needle cases, pencils, purse, etc. Chatelaines may be utilitarian
or beautifully decorated and made from precious materials like silver.
Chatham synthetic rubies
Chatham synthetic rubies (laboratory-created rubies) were introduced by
Carroll Chatham in 1959.
Chaton
A cone shaped rhinestone or crystal.
Chaton setting
A châton setting (also called coronet or arcade setting) is one
in which the stone is held in by many metal claws around a metal ring.
Chatoyancy
Chatoyancy is the lustrous, cat's eye effect seen in some cabochon stones,
like cat's eye, tiger's eye (pictured above), and sometimes in other stones,
like aquamarine. In chatoyancy, light is reflected in thin bands within
the stone. Chatoyant stones are cut in cabochon to maximize the lustrous
effect.
Chatoyant
A stone having a changeable luster due to the way it reflects light, such
as the cat's-eye or tiger's eye gemstones. From the French "chatoyer",
meaning to shimmer like cats' eyes, from the French "chat" meaning
"cat".
Chenier
Chenier is fine, hollow tubing that is used in the production of some
jewelry findings (like clasps and joints), and lately, in the actual production
of jewelry. The hollow tubes are lightweight and save in the use of gold.
The tubes are hard to bend when they are empty, so a metal rod is inserted
before bending, facilitating the bending.
Chevron setting
A chevron is a design found in heraldry resembling a shallow inverted
"V". In jewelry design, a "chevron setting" is reflective
of the heraldic chevron in that it is made up of lines in a shallow inverted
"V" pattern.
Chinese opal
Chinese opal is a misnomer for pearl opal (a type of organic opal), moonstone,
or white chalcedony
Chloride
Any compound containing a chlorine atom.
Chlorine
An abundant element which, when isolated, appears as a poisonous, greenish-yellow
gas with a disagreeable odor. It occurs naturally only as a salt, as in
sea-water. Chlorine is used widely to purify water, as a disinfectant
and bleaching agent, and in the manufacture of many important compounds
including chloroform and carbon tetrachloride.
Choker
A close fitting necklace worn tight around the neck like a collar.
Chrome
A hard, brittle, grayish white metal, fusible with difficulty and resistant
to corrosion. Its chief commercial importance is for its compounds, as
potassium chromate, lead chromate, etc., which are brilliantly colored
and are used dyeing and calico printing. The common modern usage is for
very shiny metal objects like chrome bumpers, etc.
Chrome diopside
Chrome diopside is an emerald-green colored gemstone. It is a chromium-rich
variety of the common mineral diopside (Calcium magnesium silicate). Chrome
diopside has a hardness of 5 to 6 and a specific gravity of 3.3 to 3.6.
Chromium
A lustrous, hard brittle, steel-blue metallic element, resistant to corrosion
and tarnishing. It is used in the hardening of steel alloys and the production
of stainless steels, in corrosion-resistant decorative platings, and as
a pigment in glass.
Chronograph
A chronograph is a stopwatch mechanism on a watch; it can be started,
stopped and reset independently from the watch.
Chrysoberyl
A rare, hard, yellow-green mineral consisting of alumina and glucina,
(beryllium aluminate), in crystal form. It is popular as a gemstone for
its chatoyant qualities.
Chrysocolla
Chrysocolla (meaning "golden lime" in Greek) is an opaque blue
to blue-green mineral sometimes used in jewelry. It is usually cut as
a cabochon. Chrysocolla (hydrated copper silicate) is found embedded in
rock crystal in copper mines in the USA, Russia, Chile, and the Congo.
Although Chrysocolla has been used in ornaments since the time of the
ancient Greeks, it was only described mineralogically in 1968. Its hardness
varies from 2 to 4.
Chrysolite
A mineral composed of silica, magnesia, and iron sometimes used as a gem.
Chrysolite ranges in color from a light pea green to a deep olive green
and an oily shine. It is common in certain volcanic rocks and meteorites.
Mystics have claimed that this lustrous green stone drives away evil and
has special healing properties. The name chrysolite has been used in the
past for yellow varieties of tourmaline and topaz.
Chrysoprase
Chrysoprase is the most valued variety of the mineral chalcedony (microcrystalline
quartz) that contains nickel, giving it an apple-green color. Chrysoprase
is porous and translucent. It is usually cut as a cabichon, and has been
used since ancient times. Chrysoprase has a hardness of 7 and a specific
gravity of 2.6. Chrysoprase is mined in Australia, Russia (the Ural Mtns.),
Brazil, and the western USA. Chrysoprase is sometimes called "Australian
jade," but it is not related to jade. Hard-to-detect imitation chrysoprase
is made by staining agate with chromium salts.
Cigar band
A very wide band-style ring.
Ciner
Ciner is a jewelry complany that was founded in 1895 by Emanuel Ciner,
originally producing fine jewelry. Since 1931, Ciner began producing high-end
costume jewelry with very good quality stones (including Swarovski rhinestones)
and 18-carat gold plated finishes. Their "pearls" are specially
made by coating glass beads with pearl luster many times. Many Ciner pieces
have a multitude of tiny, good-quality stones. The starfish pin above
has jade-colored stones and pavé rhinestones.
Cini
Cini produces jewelry made of silver and gold-plated silver (vermeil),
some with colored rhinestones (in later pieces). Cini pieces are known
for their beautiful workmanship, artistic designs, and intricate detail.
The company was formed by Guglielmo Cini, who was trained as a jeweler
in Florence, Italy, and emigrated to the USA in 1922. He made jewelry
in Boston, Massachusetts but moved to Laguna Beach, California, in 1957.
The company went out of business in 1970, but has been reopened by the
Cini grandaughters, Amy and Molly. The vintage silver lion pin above is
by Cini.
Cinnabar
Cinnabar is the mineral Mercury Sulfide. Its color ranges from cinnamon
to scarlet to brick red and it can be translucent to transparent. It is
often carved. Cinnabar has a hardness of 2 - 2.5 (very soft) and a specific
gravity of 8.1 (quite heavy).
Cinnamon stone
A brown or yellowish-brown variety of garnet more properly called "essonite".
Cire perdu
Cire perdu (French for "lost wax") is a process of casting metal
in which the original model is sculpted in wax. The wax is entombed in
clay, and the wax is then melted out, producing a hollow mold. The mold
is then filled with molten metal. The clay is broken off and the cast
metal remains.
Citrine
Named after the French word for lemon, "citron". Citrine is
often incorrectly called quartz topaz or citrine topaz. A variety of quartz,
citrine is found in light yellow, amber-brown, and a brilliant orange
that may be confused with fine imperial topaz. Most citrine comes from
South America. In ancient times, citrine was revered as a gift of the
sun and believed to be a powerful antidote to a viper's venom. Citrine
is the birthstone for November.
Claddagh Ring
First crafted by Master Goldsmith Richard Joyce in 1689, it is named after
Claddagh, the fishing village he lived in at the time, which overlooks
Galway Bay. The ring belongs to a class of rings called "Fede"
or "Faith rings", which date from Roman times and were popular
in the Middle Ages throughout Europe. Whereas "Fede" rings have
only two clasped hands, symbolizing faith, trust, or "plighted troth",
Claddagh rings have two hands clasping a heart, symbolizing love, surmounted
by a crown, symbolizing loyalty. The ring worn on the right hand with
the heart turned outward indicates that your heart is yet unoccupied.
Worn on the right hand with the heart turned inward indicates that love
is being considered. Worn on the left hand the with the heart turned inward
shows everyone that your heart is truly spoken for.
Clarity
One of the 4 C's of diamond grading. Gemstones with the highest clarity
contain few or no inclusions (imperfections) in the stone's crystalline
structure. Clarity is graded with a 10x magnifier. The clarity rating
of a diamond ranges from FL (flawless) to I (inclusions visible to the
naked eye).
Clasp
A device used to connect two ends of a necklace, bracelet or watch strap.
Popular types of clasps include: Barrel, box, Lobster claw, and Spring
ring clasps. (See individual listings).
Class Ring
A ring that commemorates graduating from high school. It is usually engraved
with the name of the school, the year of graduation, and a gem featuring
one of the school's colors.
Claudette
Claudette (and C. Claudette) are marks on costume jewelry made by the
Premier Jewelry Company, Inc. of New York, New York, USA. The relatively
rare Claudette marks were first used in December, 1945.
Claw
A claw is a metal prong that holds a stone securely in a setting.
Claw Setting
A way of securing a stone in its mount using small prongs that surround
it.
Cleaning Jewelry
The safest and easiest way to clean most jewelry is with a detergent bath.
Swish together warm water and any mild liquid detergent. Clean the jewelry
with a soft brush while it's in the suds, then rinse it under warm running
water. Pat it dry with a soft, lint-free cloth. Avoid using brushes, which
can scratch gold. Never boil gold, and avoid using ammonia, toothpaste,
a powder cleanser or scouring pads. Keep gold away from chlorine, lotions,
cosmetics and perm solutions, since these products may discolor or dissolve
gold alloys. gemstones rarely need cleaning unless they become dirty from
hand lotion, hairspray or other products. They can be cleaned using a
soft cloth with mild soap and water, but rinse well. If you are using
a silver or gold jewelry dip solution, most are safe for gemstones, but
read the label to make sure. Do not boil gemstones. Do not wear pearls
while applying cosmetics, hair sprays or perfume. It's best not to wear
pearl strands while bathing, because water can weaken the string. Wipe
pearl strands with a damp cloth after each use. Do not clean cultured
pearls with chemicals, abrasives or jewelry cleaner.
Clear Quartz
A colorless transparent mineral consisting of silicon dioxide in crystal
form. See Quartz.
Cleavage
Cleavage is the tendency which a stone has to fracture along its crystal
structure.
Clip-on
A piece of jewelry designed to be attached by means of a clip, such as
a clip-back earring.
Clip-back Earring
A hinged ring with a pad, called a "comfort back", at one end
to secure the earring to the earlobe without requiring that the ear be
pierced.
Cloisonné
Occasionally called "cell enameling", it is a type of enameling
in which compartments made of thin strips of metal soldered onto a metal
plate are filled with powdered glass prior to firing. The glass powder
melts filling the compartments with solid glass.
Closed Setting
A closed setting is one in which the back of the stone is not exposed
(the metal is not cut away behind the stone).
Cloud
A form of inclusion, “clouds” are white milky areas that can
found in the diamond.
Cluster
Several stones grouped together in a jewelry setting.
Cluster Brooch
A brooch developed in the 14th century in which a large central gemstone
is surrounded by a cluster of smaller gemstones and pearls.
Cluster Earring
A decorative earring made up of a cluster of glass and/or metal beads
and stones
Cluster Ring
A ring featuring a central gemstone surrounded by a number of smaller
stones.
Cluster setting
A cluster setting is one in which small stones or pearls are set around
a larger stone.
Clutch
A device that is slid along a post to secure a piece of jewelry, such
as the earring back of a stud for pierced ears.
Cocktail Ring
A large oversized ring set with precious or semiprecious stones popular
during the 1940s and 1950s.
Cognac Diamond
A cognac diamond is a cognac-brown diamond (having a color of C7). Most
cognac diamonds are mined in Western Australia (in the Argyle Mine). The
color is produced by a their low nitrogen content.
Coiffe
A net made of gold or silver threads, decorated with gems or pearls worn
on the head.
Coin Silver
A silver alloy that is 80% silver and 20% copper. Many European silver
pieces are coin silver and are marked "800", indicating that
800 parts out of 1000 are silver.
Coin-style edge
see Milgrain edge.
Collar
A necklace worn close around the neck. See also "choker".
Collarette
A collarette (also known as a bib necklace) is a short necklace with flowing
ornaments at the front.
Collet
The ring of metal that surrounds and secures the stone in a bezel setting.
Collet Setting
A collet setting is a very early method of setting gemstones. A collet
is a thin, round band of metal that goes all around the stone. One edge
of the metal is crimped over the edges of the stone and the other edge
is soldered to the metal of the jewelry, holding the stone in place. This
closed setting sometimes also had metal claws along the outside to hold
the stone even more securely (the claws were not used much after the 1200's
and 1300's.
Color
One of the 4 C s of diamond grading, the term "color" actually
refers to the absence of color in a diamond. A diamond acts like a prism
letting light pass through, refracting back to the human eye, into a rainbow
of color. The color scale breaks up the subtlety and various grades of
a diamond’s color from purest white to yellow and brown. The letters
D through Z are used to designate a diamonds color with D being colorless
and Z-graded stones having a lot of color.
Colored Diamond
Diamondss can be found in a full spectrum of colors. Colored or “Fancy”
diamonds are simply referring to diamonds that are not white.
Colored Gold
An alloy of gold and other metals producing rose, yellow, white, and green
shades.
Comfort back
A rubber or plastic pad that goes over the clip end of a clip-on earring
to cushion the earlobe.
Comfort Fit
A ring that adds to the comfort of the wearer by being curved on the inside
of the shank.
Commemorative Wares
Items used to commemorate an important or historical event, such as a
battle, coronation, or wedding.
Compass Ring
A rotating ring that can be used to determine compass direction by using
the position of the sun and the time of day.
Composite Suite
A composite suite is a piece of jewelry that can be taken apart into two
or more pieces which can also be worn. For example, a necklace may be
disassembled into two bracelets.
Concave
Concave simply means "curving inward", like the inside of an
egg shell. The opposite of Convex.
Conch
Conch is a marine animal (a mollusk) with a large, beautiful pearly shell
that varies in color, but if often white or pink (pink is the most valued
color). Queen conch has a large, pink shell. Conch shell is often used
to make jewelry. Conch is made into beads and cameos. Conch has a hardness
of 2.85 (it is relatively soft).
Concha
One of the ovals of a segmented silver belt or bridle. Also a reference
to the belt itself. Now commonly called a "Concho Belt." From
the Spanish word "concha", meaning "shell".
Concho
See Concha.
Condition , Excellent
A piece of jewelry in Excellent Condition will show reasonable evidence
of wear, and have a fine patina.
Condition, Fine
A piece of jewelry in Fine Condition may show slight wear, but not enough
to have developed a patina.
Condition, Good
A piece of jewelry in Good Condition will show substantial evidence of
wear. It will have a noticeable patina which may include numerous very
fine pits or lines. It will not have cracks, chips, obviously discolored
or poorly replaced stones, evidence of glue or other repairs, or other
evidence of hard wear considered to be damage. Damage of any kind is separately
detailed in the item description, and generally items with damage appear
at very reduced prices in the Bargain section.
Condition, Mint
A piece of jewelry having no signs of wear whatsoever, including no discolored
stones. A piece that is in Mint Condition is in virtually the same condition
as it was when it left the manufacturer. Considering that vintage jewelry
is usually 50 or more years old, and that it likely has been worn, it
is obviously quite rare to find a piece that is truly in Mint Condition.
Confetti lucite
Confetti lucite is transparent plastic with glitter or other small pieces
of material within it. Whimsical bangles, earrings, pins, necklaces and
other jewelry have been made from confetti lucite.
Continenta
Continental was a Canadian costume jewelry company that produced good-quality
pieces, usually studded with colorful rhinestones.
Contra luz opal
Contra luz (also spelled contraluz) opals are transparent opals that show
a brilliant play of iridescence only when light shines through the stone.
When the light is on the same side as the viewer, the iridescence is not
readily seen (this quality makes it difficult to design jewelry using
these beautiful gemstones). Contra luz means "against the light."
Unlike other opals, contra luz opals are usually faceted (rather than
cabochoned).
Convex
Simply means "curving outward", like the surface of a ball.
The opposite of Concave.
Copper
A common reddish-brown metallic element, copper is the only metal which
occurs abundantly in large masses as opposed to small veins or nuggets
that must be mined out of other rocks. It is also found in various ores
such as chalcopyrite, chalcocite, cuprite, and malachite. When alloyed
with tin it forms bronze, and when alloyed with zinc it forms brass. Copper
is an excellent conductor of heat and electricity and is widely used for
electrical wiring, as well as water piping and corrosion-resistant parts.
When in moist conditions, a greenish layer forms on the outside. It has
been extracted and used for thousands of years. The name is derived from
the Greek "kupros" (the island of Cyprus), called "Cyprian
brass", and known by the Romans as 'cuprum.'
Coral
Coral is a form of calcium carbonate, (like aragonite or marble), secreted
in long chains by coral polyps, who live in colonies under the ocean.
Coral can be found all over the world, but the bulk of coral used in jewelry
making has always come from the waters off Sardinia and the coast of Sicily,
in the Mediterranean. Coral comes in colors from vivid orange, red, and
white, to salmon and pale pink (called angelskin coral). In jewelry making,
coral is either carved into beads, cameos, and other forms, or is left
in its natural branch-like form and just polished. During the mid-Victorian
era large cameo brooches of coral finely carved in high-relief floral
sprays or faces were popular. It used to be thought that coral protected
the wearer, so it was a traditional gift to children. Since it is composed
of calcium carbonate, real coral will effervesce if touched with acid.
Imitation coral is made from glass, porcelain, or plastic and will not
effervesce when touched with acid.
Coral
Coral is an animal that grows in colonies in the ocean. Coral polyps secrete
a strong calcium structure that is used in jewelry making. Coral ranges
in color from pale pink (called angelskin coral) to orange to red to white
to black. The most valued colors are deep red (called noble coral) and
pink. In jewelry making, coral is either carved into beads, cameos, or
other forms, or is left in its natural branch-like form and just polished.
It used to be thought that coral protected the wearer, so it was a traditional
gift to children. Coral has a hardness of about 3.5 and a specific gravity
of 2.6 to 2.7. Since it is composed of calcium carbonate, coral will effervesce
if touched with acid. Imitation coral is made from glass, porcelain, or
plastic.
Corallium rubrum
A valuable red coral introduced to the Indians by the Spanish.
Cord belt
A thick belt worn on the waist, usually with a caftan.
Cornelian
Cornelian (also called carnelian and carneole) is a reddish form of chalcedony
(a type of quartz). This translucent stone has a waxy luster. The best
carnelian is from India. Most commercial carnelian is really stained chalcedony.
Carnelian has a hardness of 7 and a specific gravity of 2.61.
Cornucopia
The cornucopia is a symbol of plenty and is used sometimes in jewelry.
The Trifari cornucopia pin/clip pictured above is gold colored. It has
a double-pronged fastening mechanism that can be used either as a fur
clip or as a pin.
Coro
Coro, Inc. is the largest costume jewelry company. It was founded by Cohn
and Rosenberger early in 1919, producing reasonably-priced jewelry. Many
Coro pieces are avidly collected, including their duettes, sterling pieces,
and many intricate older pieces.
Coro Duettes
Coro duettes are patented sets of jewelry made by the Coro company. Each
"duette" has two clips which attach to a pin base; they can
be worn as a single pin or as two clips.
Coronet
A small or inferior type of crown worn by a person of high rank but lower
than a sovereign.
Coronet setting
See Arcade Setting.
Corundum
The name of a family of stones composed of crystallized aluminum and oxygen
that includes rubies and sapphires. The color of these stones depends
on the oxides present in their composition. Corundum is one of the hardest
minerals second only to diamonds rating a 9 on the Mohs scale. See alumina.
Coventry
Sarah Coventry is a company that produced mid-range costume jewelry. The
Sarah Coventry jewelry company was founded in Newark, New Jersey, USA
by Charles H. Stuart (who earlier founded the Emmons jewelry company)
in November, 1948. He named the company after his his grand-daughter.
Sarah Coventry jewelry was sold at home fashion shows until 1984, when
the company was sold. Both women's and men's jewelry was produced under
the marks Sarah Coventry (first used in May, 1949), SC (first used in
Oct. 1953), Sarah Cov (first used in Jan. 1960). Sarah Coventry jewelry
came with a "Lifetime Guarantee" which read, "May be sent
back for repair to: P.O. Box 7899, Warwick, RI 02887. Please include handling
charge of 1.50."
Cowrie Shell
The highly polished and brightly marked shells of tropical marine gastropods
of the genus Cypraea, some of which are used as currency in the South
Pacific and Africa. Small cowrie shells are commonly used as beads in
jewelry.
Crimp Bead
Small soft metal beads that are squeezed shut to secure clasps onto the
ends of cords or chains.
Crown
The upper part of a cut diamond or stone above the girdle.
Crown Glass
Crown glass is glass that contains no lead oxide. Some fake rhinestones
are made from crown glass.
Crown Height
A measurement of the distance from the girdle to the table on a diamond
or other cut stone.
Crystal
A fine, high-quality glass invented in 17th century England. In order
to be considered crystal rather than simple glass, the product must contain
at least 10% lead oxide. The lead oxide is attributed to providing the
glass with extraordinary qualities of brilliance, sound and a suitable
texture for cutting or engraving. Some of the finest crystal ever made
is from Baccarat in France (est. 1816) and Waterford in Ireland (est.
1729).
Crystal (GLASS)
Crystal is high-quality glass containing at least 10% lead oxide. Lead
added to the melt produces very clear glass resembling rock crystal. The
process of making lead crystal was discovered by the English glassmaker
George Ravenscroft in 1676. Crystal is colored by adding various metallic
oxides to the melt.
Crystal (NATURAL)
A crystal is a solid whose atoms form a very regular structure. Some crystals
include quartz, diamond, and emerald.
Crystal Habit
Crystal habit is the crystal form that a particular crystal has. The most
common crystal habits are:
Prismatic - elongated with parallel sides, like emerald, tourmaline
Tabular - short and flat (table-like), like morganite
Ocatahedral - eight faces, like diamond
Dodecahedral - 12 faces, like garnet
Acicular - needle-shaped, like rutilated quartz
Platy - occurring in very thin plates, like hematite
Crystal Systems
Crystals are divided into seven crystal systems, according to their optical
properties (how light bends within the crystal), plane of symmetry, axis
of symmetry, center of symmetry, crystallographic axis. Within each of
the systems, the cyrstals can mineralize into different crystal habits
(form). The seven crystal systems are: cubic systems, tetragonal systems,
hexagonal systems, trigonal systems, orthorhombic systems, monoclinic
systems, and triclinic systems. For more information on crystal systems,
click here.
Crystalline
A substance composed of crystals or resembling crystal in transparency,
structure and outline.
Crystallize
To cause a material to form crystals or to assume both the internal structure
and external form of a crystal.
Cuban Link Chain
A standard cable chain with oval shaped links that are each decorated
with a twisting pattern resembling rope.
Cubic Zirconia (CZ)
A clear, hard, mass-produced gemstone cut to resemble a diamond. The mineral
baddeleyite has the same chemical composition, but to become a CZ the
mineral must be heated to almost 5000 degrees Fahrenheit and have an oxide
stabilizer such as yttrium or calcium added to keep it from reverting
back to its original form when cooled. Almost all the rough CZ's in the
market are composed of zirconium oxide and yttrium oxide, both of which
are naturally white but combine to form a brilliant clear crystal. Like
diamonds, the best cubic zirconia gems are colorless but colored forms
are also manufactured. Vivid green CZ is sometimes referred to as C-OX,
and CZ in numerous colors is frequently sold under various tradenames,
such as the yellow CZ from Ceylon called "jargon". Cubic zirconia
gemstones are cut in the same fashion as diamonds, and like diamonds the
size of the gemstone is usually indicated by its weight in carats. The
stone can also be measured in millimeter diameter size. Because the cubic
zirconia stone is so dense and solid, it outweighs a diamond of the same
millimeter size, weighing 1.7 times more than a diamond of the same millimeter
diameter. It is also not as hard as a diamond rating only an 8 on the
Mohs scale. Natural skin oils, soap, and dirt cause a film that dulls
the beauty and luster of the cubic zirconia, just as it dulls real diamonds.
The best cleaning agent for cubic zirconia is liquid dishwashing detergent,
but other gem and jewelry cleaners can also be used.
Cubic Zirconium
Cubic zirconium (also known as cubic zirconia) is an inexpensive, lab-produced
gemstone that resembles a diamond. Cubic zirconia was developed in 1977.
Cuff Bracelet
A wide rigid bangle with a narrow opening on one side to allow the the
wrist to pass through.
Cuff link
A decorative fastener worn to close the cuff of a shirt that provides
holes on the cuff for the cufflink rather than closing with buttons.
Culet
The tiny flat facet on the tip of the pavilion of a cut gemstone.
Cullinan Diamond
The Cullinan diamond (also called the Star of Africa) is the largest diamond
yet found, weighing 3,106 carats (roughly 1.3 pounds) in its rough form.
It was mined at the Premier Mine in South Africa in 1905. This enormous
gem was named for the chairman of the company that owned the mine. It
was given to King Edward VII of England for his birthday in 1907. The
diamond was cut (by Joseph J. Asscher of Amsterdam) into many stones,
including the Cullinan I (530 carats, pendelique-brilliant shaped, the
largest cut diamond in the world), the Cullinan II (317 carats, cushion
shaped), Cullinan III (94 carats, pendelique shaped), Cullinan IV (63
carats, square-brilliant shaped), and many other smaller stones.
Cultured Pearl
A means of duplicating the organic process of natural pearl creation invented
by Kokichi Mikimoto circa 1893. A tiny irritant like a bead, grain of
sand, or a piece of mother of pearl from another mollusk can be inserted
into the opening of an oyster or mollusk. This irritant becomes the nucleus
of a pearl once that mollusk secretes a lustrous substance (nacre) to
cover the foreign body. An oyster or mollusk can take between five to
seven years to secrete enough nacre to produce a jewelry quality pearl.
Cupid's darts
Cupid's Darts is another name for rutilated quartz.
Curb Link Chain
A chain composed of oval-shaped links that are twisted and often diamond-cut
so they lie flat.
Cushion Cut
A stone that is cut to look like a square or rectangle with rounded edges.
The cut is usually multi-faceted to give the highest possible light refraction.
Cut
One of the 4 C's of diamond grading, "cut" refers to the shape
and style of a polished gem. How a diamond is cut has a lot to do with
the stone's fire and brilliance. A diamond that is cut either too shallow
or too deep will not be as brilliant as a properly cut diamond.
Cut Beads
Cut beads are glass beads that have been faceted. This process makes the
bead reflect and refract more light.
Cut glass
Any glass whose surface has been cut into facets, grooves and depressions
by a large, rotating wheel. Wheel cutting glass was developed in the 8th
century BC, but the technique of faceting wasn't perfected until the 18th
century in England. Although cutting glass is a costly and difficult process,
the brilliant effects are extraordinary!
Cut Steel
Cut steel is steel that is cut with a huge number of facets and then riveted
to a plate of steel (or other metal). It was widely used in jewelry during
the late 18th century, including shoe buckles, buttons, bracelet, necklaces,
earrings, hair ornaments, and as a setting for cameos. Early in the 19th
century, cut steel quality diminished and was stamped out in strips instead
of being individually cut and riveted.
Cut Stones
Common cuts include the brilliant cut, old European cut, emerald cut,
radiant cut, rose cut, step cut, pendelique cut. Mixed cuts in which the
style of the facets above and below the girdle are different. Other, more
unusual cuts, are know as fantasy cuts (like the heart cut).
CZ
See cubic zirconia.
An earring with a drop suspended like a chandelier. Also called a "Drop
Earring" or "Dangle Earring".
Channel Inlay
A design similar to enameling in which stones, rather than melted plastic
or glass, are cut to shape and set into the recesses of a piece of jewelry.
Commonly seen with jewelry using mother of pearl and turquoise.
Channel Set
A style of setting in which a number of uniformly sized small stones,
usually of the round cut, princess cut or baguette shapes, are set side
by side in a grooved channel. Unlike most setting methods the stones are
not secured individually with prongs and there is no metal visible between
the stones.
Chaplet
A garland, wreath, or ornamented band worn around the head. Chaplets are
made of metal with repoussé decoration or embellished with gemstones
and pearls.
Charel
Charel is a mark of relatively rare, medium-quality costume jewelry made
by the Charel Jewelry Company, Inc. of Brooklyn, New York. Many Charel
pieces have pastel-colored plastic stones on plated metal.
Charm
A pendant or trinket worn on a bracelet, earring or necklace.
Charm Bracelet
A chain link bracelet with charms attached to it. (It's not a charm bracelet
until it has charms attached.)
Charm Ring
A ring with a charm attached to the ring band.
Charoite
Charoite is a fairly recent discovery found in Russia in 1978 in the Murun
mountains in Yakutia, near the Charo River. This is the only known location
for this rare mineral.
It ranges in color from a light lilac to a deep purple and can be mottled
with gray, white and black inclusions. The chatoyant variety in a bright
deep purple, is usually considered more valuable than the non-chatoyant
variety although both are used in jewelry and compliment a number of other
stones.
Chasing
A method of decorating the front, (or outside), of metal objects by making
indentations using shaped punches and a chasing hammer. The opposite of
chasing is repoussé.
Chatelaine
French for "Lady of the House", a chatelaine is an ornamental
chain or pin worn at a woman's waist from which dangle keys, trinkets,
scissors, needle cases, pencils, purse, etc. Chatelaines may be utilitarian
or beautifully decorated and made from precious materials like silver.
Chatham synthetic rubies
Chatham synthetic rubies (laboratory-created rubies) were introduced by
Carroll Chatham in 1959.
Chaton
A cone shaped rhinestone or crystal.
Chaton setting
A châton setting (also called coronet or arcade setting) is one
in which the stone is held in by many metal claws around a metal ring.
Chatoyancy
Chatoyancy is the lustrous, cat's eye effect seen in some cabochon stones,
like cat's eye, tiger's eye (pictured above), and sometimes in other stones,
like aquamarine. In chatoyancy, light is reflected in thin bands within
the stone. Chatoyant stones are cut in cabochon to maximize the lustrous
effect.
Chatoyant
A stone having a changeable luster due to the way it reflects light, such
as the cat's-eye or tiger's eye gemstones. From the French "chatoyer",
meaning to shimmer like cats' eyes, from the French "chat" meaning
"cat".
Chenier
Chenier is fine, hollow tubing that is used in the production of some
jewelry findings (like clasps and joints), and lately, in the actual production
of jewelry. The hollow tubes are lightweight and save in the use of gold.
The tubes are hard to bend when they are empty, so a metal rod is inserted
before bending, facilitating the bending.
Chevron setting
A chevron is a design found in heraldry resembling a shallow inverted
"V". In jewelry design, a "chevron setting" is reflective
of the heraldic chevron in that it is made up of lines in a shallow inverted
"V" pattern.
Chinese opal
Chinese opal is a misnomer for pearl opal (a type of organic opal), moonstone,
or white chalcedony
Chloride
Any compound containing a chlorine atom.
Chlorine
An abundant element which, when isolated, appears as a poisonous, greenish-yellow
gas with a disagreeable odor. It occurs naturally only as a salt, as in
sea-water. Chlorine is used widely to purify water, as a disinfectant
and bleaching agent, and in the manufacture of many important compounds
including chloroform and carbon tetrachloride.
Choker
A close fitting necklace worn tight around the neck like a collar.
Chrome
A hard, brittle, grayish white metal, fusible with difficulty and resistant
to corrosion. Its chief commercial importance is for its compounds, as
potassium chromate, lead chromate, etc., which are brilliantly colored
and are used dyeing and calico printing. The common modern usage is for
very shiny metal objects like chrome bumpers, etc.
Chrome diopside
Chrome diopside is an emerald-green colored gemstone. It is a chromium-rich
variety of the common mineral diopside (Calcium magnesium silicate). Chrome
diopside has a hardness of 5 to 6 and a specific gravity of 3.3 to 3.6.
Chromium
A lustrous, hard brittle, steel-blue metallic element, resistant to corrosion
and tarnishing. It is used in the hardening of steel alloys and the production
of stainless steels, in corrosion-resistant decorative platings, and as
a pigment in glass.
Chronograph
A chronograph is a stopwatch mechanism on a watch; it can be started,
stopped and reset independently from the watch.
Chrysoberyl
A rare, hard, yellow-green mineral consisting of alumina and glucina,
(beryllium aluminate), in crystal form. It is popular as a gemstone for
its chatoyant qualities.
Chrysocolla
Chrysocolla (meaning "golden lime" in Greek) is an opaque blue
to blue-green mineral sometimes used in jewelry. It is usually cut as
a cabochon. Chrysocolla (hydrated copper silicate) is found embedded in
rock crystal in copper mines in the USA, Russia, Chile, and the Congo.
Although Chrysocolla has been used in ornaments since the time of the
ancient Greeks, it was only described mineralogically in 1968. Its hardness
varies from 2 to 4.
Chrysolite
A mineral composed of silica, magnesia, and iron sometimes used as a gem.
Chrysolite ranges in color from a light pea green to a deep olive green
and an oily shine. It is common in certain volcanic rocks and meteorites.
Mystics have claimed that this lustrous green stone drives away evil and
has special healing properties. The name chrysolite has been used in the
past for yellow varieties of tourmaline and topaz.
Chrysoprase
Chrysoprase is the most valued variety of the mineral chalcedony (microcrystalline
quartz) that contains nickel, giving it an apple-green color. Chrysoprase
is porous and translucent. It is usually cut as a cabichon, and has been
used since ancient times. Chrysoprase has a hardness of 7 and a specific
gravity of 2.6. Chrysoprase is mined in Australia, Russia (the Ural Mtns.),
Brazil, and the western USA. Chrysoprase is sometimes called "Australian
jade," but it is not related to jade. Hard-to-detect imitation chrysoprase
is made by staining agate with chromium salts.
Cigar band
A very wide band-style ring.
Ciner
Ciner is a jewelry complany that was founded in 1895 by Emanuel Ciner,
originally producing fine jewelry. Since 1931, Ciner began producing high-end
costume jewelry with very good quality stones (including Swarovski rhinestones)
and 18-carat gold plated finishes. Their "pearls" are specially
made by coating glass beads with pearl luster many times. Many Ciner pieces
have a multitude of tiny, good-quality stones. The starfish pin above
has jade-colored stones and pavé rhinestones.
Cini
Cini produces jewelry made of silver and gold-plated silver (vermeil),
some with colored rhinestones (in later pieces). Cini pieces are known
for their beautiful workmanship, artistic designs, and intricate detail.
The company was formed by Guglielmo Cini, who was trained as a jeweler
in Florence, Italy, and emigrated to the USA in 1922. He made jewelry
in Boston, Massachusetts but moved to Laguna Beach, California, in 1957.
The company went out of business in 1970, but has been reopened by the
Cini grandaughters, Amy and Molly. The vintage silver lion pin above is
by Cini.
Cinnabar
Cinnabar is the mineral Mercury Sulfide. Its color ranges from cinnamon
to scarlet to brick red and it can be translucent to transparent. It is
often carved. Cinnabar has a hardness of 2 - 2.5 (very soft) and a specific
gravity of 8.1 (quite heavy).
Cinnamon stone
A brown or yellowish-brown variety of garnet more properly called "essonite".
Cire perdu
Cire perdu (French for "lost wax") is a process of casting metal
in which the original model is sculpted in wax. The wax is entombed in
clay, and the wax is then melted out, producing a hollow mold. The mold
is then filled with molten metal. The clay is broken off and the cast
metal remains.
Citrine
Named after the French word for lemon, "citron". Citrine is
often incorrectly called quartz topaz or citrine topaz. A variety of quartz,
citrine is found in light yellow, amber-brown, and a brilliant orange
that may be confused with fine imperial topaz. Most citrine comes from
South America. In ancient times, citrine was revered as a gift of the
sun and believed to be a powerful antidote to a viper's venom. Citrine
is the birthstone for November.
Claddagh Ring
First crafted by Master Goldsmith Richard Joyce in 1689, it is named after
Claddagh, the fishing village he lived in at the time, which overlooks
Galway Bay. The ring belongs to a class of rings called "Fede"
or "Faith rings", which date from Roman times and were popular
in the Middle Ages throughout Europe. Whereas "Fede" rings have
only two clasped hands, symbolizing faith, trust, or "plighted troth",
Claddagh rings have two hands clasping a heart, symbolizing love, surmounted
by a crown, symbolizing loyalty. The ring worn on the right hand with
the heart turned outward indicates that your heart is yet unoccupied.
Worn on the right hand with the heart turned inward indicates that love
is being considered. Worn on the left hand the with the heart turned inward
shows everyone that your heart is truly spoken for.
Clarity
One of the 4 C's of diamond grading. Gemstones with the highest clarity
contain few or no inclusions (imperfections) in the stone's crystalline
structure. Clarity is graded with a 10x magnifier. The clarity rating
of a diamond ranges from FL (flawless) to I (inclusions visible to the
naked eye).
Clasp
A device used to connect two ends of a necklace, bracelet or watch strap.
Popular types of clasps include: Barrel, box, Lobster claw, and Spring
ring clasps. (See individual listings).
Class Ring
A ring that commemorates graduating from high school. It is usually engraved
with the name of the school, the year of graduation, and a gem featuring
one of the school's colors.
Claudette
Claudette (and C. Claudette) are marks on costume jewelry made by the
Premier Jewelry Company, Inc. of New York, New York, USA. The relatively
rare Claudette marks were first used in December, 1945.
Claw
A claw is a metal prong that holds a stone securely in a setting.
Claw Setting
A way of securing a stone in its mount using small prongs that surround
it.
Cleaning Jewelry
The safest and easiest way to clean most jewelry is with a detergent bath.
Swish together warm water and any mild liquid detergent. Clean the jewelry
with a soft brush while it's in the suds, then rinse it under warm running
water. Pat it dry with a soft, lint-free cloth. Avoid using brushes, which
can scratch gold. Never boil gold, and avoid using ammonia, toothpaste,
a powder cleanser or scouring pads. Keep gold away from chlorine, lotions,
cosmetics and perm solutions, since these products may discolor or dissolve
gold alloys. gemstones rarely need cleaning unless they become dirty from
hand lotion, hairspray or other products. They can be cleaned using a
soft cloth with mild soap and water, but rinse well. If you are using
a silver or gold jewelry dip solution, most are safe for gemstones, but
read the label to make sure. Do not boil gemstones. Do not wear pearls
while applying cosmetics, hair sprays or perfume. It's best not to wear
pearl strands while bathing, because water can weaken the string. Wipe
pearl strands with a damp cloth after each use. Do not clean cultured
pearls with chemicals, abrasives or jewelry cleaner.
Clear Quartz
A colorless transparent mineral consisting of silicon dioxide in crystal
form. See Quartz.
Cleavage
Cleavage is the tendency which a stone has to fracture along its crystal
structure.
Clip-on
A piece of jewelry designed to be attached by means of a clip, such as
a clip-back earring.
Clip-back Earring
A hinged ring with a pad, called a "comfort back", at one end
to secure the earring to the earlobe without requiring that the ear be
pierced.
Cloisonné
Occasionally called "cell enameling", it is a type of enameling
in which compartments made of thin strips of metal soldered onto a metal
plate are filled with powdered glass prior to firing. The glass powder
melts filling the compartments with solid glass.
Closed Setting
A closed setting is one in which the back of the stone is not exposed
(the metal is not cut away behind the stone).
Cloud
A form of inclusion, “clouds” are white milky areas that can
found in the diamond.
Cluster
Several stones grouped together in a jewelry setting.
Cluster Brooch
A brooch developed in the 14th century in which a large central gemstone
is surrounded by a cluster of smaller gemstones and pearls.
Cluster Earring
A decorative earring made up of a cluster of glass and/or metal beads
and stones
Cluster Ring
A ring featuring a central gemstone surrounded by a number of smaller
stones.
Cluster setting
A cluster setting is one in which small stones or pearls are set around
a larger stone.
Clutch
A device that is slid along a post to secure a piece of jewelry, such
as the earring back of a stud for pierced ears.
Cocktail Ring
A large oversized ring set with precious or semiprecious stones popular
during the 1940s and 1950s.
Cognac Diamond
A cognac diamond is a cognac-brown diamond (having a color of C7). Most
cognac diamonds are mined in Western Australia (in the Argyle Mine). The
color is produced by a their low nitrogen content.
Coiffe
A net made of gold or silver threads, decorated with gems or pearls worn
on the head.
Coin Silver
A silver alloy that is 80% silver and 20% copper. Many European silver
pieces are coin silver and are marked "800", indicating that
800 parts out of 1000 are silver.
Coin-style edge
see Milgrain edge.
Collar
A necklace worn close around the neck. See also "choker".
Collarette
A collarette (also known as a bib necklace) is a short necklace with flowing
ornaments at the front.
Collet
The ring of metal that surrounds and secures the stone in a bezel setting.
Collet Setting
A collet setting is a very early method of setting gemstones. A collet
is a thin, round band of metal that goes all around the stone. One edge
of the metal is crimped over the edges of the stone and the other edge
is soldered to the metal of the jewelry, holding the stone in place. This
closed setting sometimes also had metal claws along the outside to hold
the stone even more securely (the claws were not used much after the 1200's
and 1300's.
Color
One of the 4 C s of diamond grading, the term "color" actually
refers to the absence of color in a diamond. A diamond acts like a prism
letting light pass through, refracting back to the human eye, into a rainbow
of color. The color scale breaks up the subtlety and various grades of
a diamond’s color from purest white to yellow and brown. The letters
D through Z are used to designate a diamonds color with D being colorless
and Z-graded stones having a lot of color.
Colored Diamond
Diamondss can be found in a full spectrum of colors. Colored or “Fancy”
diamonds are simply referring to diamonds that are not white.
Colored Gold
An alloy of gold and other metals producing rose, yellow, white, and green
shades.
Comfort back
A rubber or plastic pad that goes over the clip end of a clip-on earring
to cushion the earlobe.
Comfort Fit
A ring that adds to the comfort of the wearer by being curved on the inside
of the shank.
Commemorative Wares
Items used to commemorate an important or historical event, such as a
battle, coronation, or wedding.
Compass Ring
A rotating ring that can be used to determine compass direction by using
the position of the sun and the time of day.
Composite Suite
A composite suite is a piece of jewelry that can be taken apart into two
or more pieces which can also be worn. For example, a necklace may be
disassembled into two bracelets.
Concave
Concave simply means "curving inward", like the inside of an
egg shell. The opposite of Convex.
Conch
Conch is a marine animal (a mollusk) with a large, beautiful pearly shell
that varies in color, but if often white or pink (pink is the most valued
color). Queen conch has a large, pink shell. Conch shell is often used
to make jewelry. Conch is made into beads and cameos. Conch has a hardness
of 2.85 (it is relatively soft).
Concha
One of the ovals of a segmented silver belt or bridle. Also a reference
to the belt itself. Now commonly called a "Concho Belt." From
the Spanish word "concha", meaning "shell".
Concho
See Concha.
Condition , Excellent
A piece of jewelry in Excellent Condition will show reasonable evidence
of wear, and have a fine patina.
Condition, Fine
A piece of jewelry in Fine Condition may show slight wear, but not enough
to have developed a patina.
Condition, Good
A piece of jewelry in Good Condition will show substantial evidence of
wear. It will have a noticeable patina which may include numerous very
fine pits or lines. It will not have cracks, chips, obviously discolored
or poorly replaced stones, evidence of glue or other repairs, or other
evidence of hard wear considered to be damage. Damage of any kind is separately
detailed in the item description, and generally items with damage appear
at very reduced prices in the Bargain section.
Condition, Mint
A piece of jewelry having no signs of wear whatsoever, including no discolored
stones. A piece that is in Mint Condition is in virtually the same condition
as it was when it left the manufacturer. Considering that vintage jewelry
is usually 50 or more years old, and that it likely has been worn, it
is obviously quite rare to find a piece that is truly in Mint Condition.
Confetti lucite
Confetti lucite is transparent plastic with glitter or other small pieces
of material within it. Whimsical bangles, earrings, pins, necklaces and
other jewelry have been made from confetti lucite.
Continenta
Continental was a Canadian costume jewelry company that produced good-quality
pieces, usually studded with colorful rhinestones.
Contra luz opal
Contra luz (also spelled contraluz) opals are transparent opals that show
a brilliant play of iridescence only when light shines through the stone.
When the light is on the same side as the viewer, the iridescence is not
readily seen (this quality makes it difficult to design jewelry using
these beautiful gemstones). Contra luz means "against the light."
Unlike other opals, contra luz opals are usually faceted (rather than
cabochoned).
Convex
Simply means "curving outward", like the surface of a ball.
The opposite of Concave.
Copper
A common reddish-brown metallic element, copper is the only metal which
occurs abundantly in large masses as opposed to small veins or nuggets
that must be mined out of other rocks. It is also found in various ores
such as chalcopyrite, chalcocite, cuprite, and malachite. When alloyed
with tin it forms bronze, and when alloyed with zinc it forms brass. Copper
is an excellent conductor of heat and electricity and is widely used for
electrical wiring, as well as water piping and corrosion-resistant parts.
When in moist conditions, a greenish layer forms on the outside. It has
been extracted and used for thousands of years. The name is derived from
the Greek "kupros" (the island of Cyprus), called "Cyprian
brass", and known by the Romans as 'cuprum.'
Coral
Coral is a form of calcium carbonate, (like aragonite or marble), secreted
in long chains by coral polyps, who live in colonies under the ocean.
Coral can be found all over the world, but the bulk of coral used in jewelry
making has always come from the waters off Sardinia and the coast of Sicily,
in the Mediterranean. Coral comes in colors from vivid orange, red, and
white, to salmon and pale pink (called angelskin coral). In jewelry making,
coral is either carved into beads, cameos, and other forms, or is left
in its natural branch-like form and just polished. During the mid-Victorian
era large cameo brooches of coral finely carved in high-relief floral
sprays or faces were popular. It used to be thought that coral protected
the wearer, so it was a traditional gift to children. Since it is composed
of calcium carbonate, real coral will effervesce if touched with acid.
Imitation coral is made from glass, porcelain, or plastic and will not
effervesce when touched with acid.
Coral
Coral is an animal that grows in colonies in the ocean. Coral polyps secrete
a strong calcium structure that is used in jewelry making. Coral ranges
in color from pale pink (called angelskin coral) to orange to red to white
to black. The most valued colors are deep red (called noble coral) and
pink. In jewelry making, coral is either carved into beads, cameos, or
other forms, or is left in its natural branch-like form and just polished.
It used to be thought that coral protected the wearer, so it was a traditional
gift to children. Coral has a hardness of about 3.5 and a specific gravity
of 2.6 to 2.7. Since it is composed of calcium carbonate, coral will effervesce
if touched with acid. Imitation coral is made from glass, porcelain, or
plastic.
Corallium rubrum
A valuable red coral introduced to the Indians by the Spanish.
Cord belt
A thick belt worn on the waist, usually with a caftan.
Cornelian
Cornelian (also called carnelian and carneole) is a reddish form of chalcedony
(a type of quartz). This translucent stone has a waxy luster. The best
carnelian is from India. Most commercial carnelian is really stained chalcedony.
Carnelian has a hardness of 7 and a specific gravity of 2.61.
Cornucopia
The cornucopia is a symbol of plenty and is used sometimes in jewelry.
The Trifari cornucopia pin/clip pictured above is gold colored. It has
a double-pronged fastening mechanism that can be used either as a fur
clip or as a pin.
Coro
Coro, Inc. is the largest costume jewelry company. It was founded by Cohn
and Rosenberger early in 1919, producing reasonably-priced jewelry. Many
Coro pieces are avidly collected, including their duettes, sterling pieces,
and many intricate older pieces.
Coro Duettes
Coro duettes are patented sets of jewelry made by the Coro company. Each
"duette" has two clips which attach to a pin base; they can
be worn as a single pin or as two clips.
Coronet
A small or inferior type of crown worn by a person of high rank but lower
than a sovereign.
Coronet setting
See Arcade Setting.
Corundum
The name of a family of stones composed of crystallized aluminum and oxygen
that includes rubies and sapphires. The color of these stones depends
on the oxides present in their composition. Corundum is one of the hardest
minerals second only to diamonds rating a 9 on the Mohs scale. See alumina.
Coventry
Sarah Coventry is a company that produced mid-range costume jewelry. The
Sarah Coventry jewelry company was founded in Newark, New Jersey, USA
by Charles H. Stuart (who earlier founded the Emmons jewelry company)
in November, 1948. He named the company after his his grand-daughter.
Sarah Coventry jewelry was sold at home fashion shows until 1984, when
the company was sold. Both women's and men's jewelry was produced under
the marks Sarah Coventry (first used in May, 1949), SC (first used in
Oct. 1953), Sarah Cov (first used in Jan. 1960). Sarah Coventry jewelry
came with a "Lifetime Guarantee" which read, "May be sent
back for repair to: P.O. Box 7899, Warwick, RI 02887. Please include handling
charge of 1.50."
Cowrie Shell
The highly polished and brightly marked shells of tropical marine gastropods
of the genus Cypraea, some of which are used as currency in the South
Pacific and Africa. Small cowrie shells are commonly used as beads in
jewelry.
Crimp Bead
Small soft metal beads that are squeezed shut to secure clasps onto the
ends of cords or chains.
Crown
The upper part of a cut diamond or stone above the girdle.
Crown Glass
Crown glass is glass that contains no lead oxide. Some fake rhinestones
are made from crown glass.
Crown Height
A measurement of the distance from the girdle to the table on a diamond
or other cut stone.
Crystal
A fine, high-quality glass invented in 17th century England. In order
to be considered crystal rather than simple glass, the product must contain
at least 10% lead oxide. The lead oxide is attributed to providing the
glass with extraordinary qualities of brilliance, sound and a suitable
texture for cutting or engraving. Some of the finest crystal ever made
is from Baccarat in France (est. 1816) and Waterford in Ireland (est.
1729).
Crystal (GLASS)
Crystal is high-quality glass containing at least 10% lead oxide. Lead
added to the melt produces very clear glass resembling rock crystal. The
process of making lead crystal was discovered by the English glassmaker
George Ravenscroft in 1676. Crystal is colored by adding various metallic
oxides to the melt.
Crystal (NATURAL)
A crystal is a solid whose atoms form a very regular structure. Some crystals
include quartz, diamond, and emerald.
Crystal Habit
Crystal habit is the crystal form that a particular crystal has. The most
common crystal habits are:
Prismatic - elongated with parallel sides, like emerald, tourmaline
Tabular - short and flat (table-like), like morganite
Ocatahedral - eight faces, like diamond
Dodecahedral - 12 faces, like garnet
Acicular - needle-shaped, like rutilated quartz
Platy - occurring in very thin plates, like hematite
Crystal Systems
Crystals are divided into seven crystal systems, according to their optical
properties (how light bends within the crystal), plane of symmetry, axis
of symmetry, center of symmetry, crystallographic axis. Within each of
the systems, the cyrstals can mineralize into different crystal habits
(form). The seven crystal systems are: cubic systems, tetragonal systems,
hexagonal systems, trigonal systems, orthorhombic systems, monoclinic
systems, and triclinic systems. For more information on crystal systems,
click here.
Crystalline
A substance composed of crystals or resembling crystal in transparency,
structure and outline.
Crystallize
To cause a material to form crystals or to assume both the internal structure
and external form of a crystal.
Cuban Link Chain
A standard cable chain with oval shaped links that are each decorated
with a twisting pattern resembling rope.
Cubic Zirconia (CZ)
A clear, hard, mass-produced gemstone cut to resemble a diamond. The mineral
baddeleyite has the same chemical composition, but to become a CZ the
mineral must be heated to almost 5000 degrees Fahrenheit and have an oxide
stabilizer such as yttrium or calcium added to keep it from reverting
back to its original form when cooled. Almost all the rough CZ's in the
market are composed of zirconium oxide and yttrium oxide, both of which
are naturally white but combine to form a brilliant clear crystal. Like
diamonds, the best cubic zirconia gems are colorless but colored forms
are also manufactured. Vivid green CZ is sometimes referred to as C-OX,
and CZ in numerous colors is frequently sold under various tradenames,
such as the yellow CZ from Ceylon called "jargon". Cubic zirconia
gemstones are cut in the same fashion as diamonds, and like diamonds the
size of the gemstone is usually indicated by its weight in carats. The
stone can also be measured in millimeter diameter size. Because the cubic
zirconia stone is so dense and solid, it outweighs a diamond of the same
millimeter size, weighing 1.7 times more than a diamond of the same millimeter
diameter. It is also not as hard as a diamond rating only an 8 on the
Mohs scale. Natural skin oils, soap, and dirt cause a film that dulls
the beauty and luster of the cubic zirconia, just as it dulls real diamonds.
The best cleaning agent for cubic zirconia is liquid dishwashing detergent,
but other gem and jewelry cleaners can also be used.
Cubic Zirconium
Cubic zirconium (also known as cubic zirconia) is an inexpensive, lab-produced
gemstone that resembles a diamond. Cubic zirconia was developed in 1977.
Cuff Bracelet
A wide rigid bangle with a narrow opening on one side to allow the the
wrist to pass through.
Cuff link
A decorative fastener worn to close the cuff of a shirt that provides
holes on the cuff for the cufflink rather than closing with buttons.
Culet
The tiny flat facet on the tip of the pavilion of a cut gemstone.
Cullinan Diamond
The Cullinan diamond (also called the Star of Africa) is the largest diamond
yet found, weighing 3,106 carats (roughly 1.3 pounds) in its rough form.
It was mined at the Premier Mine in South Africa in 1905. This enormous
gem was named for the chairman of the company that owned the mine. It
was given to King Edward VII of England for his birthday in 1907. The
diamond was cut (by Joseph J. Asscher of Amsterdam) into many stones,
including the Cullinan I (530 carats, pendelique-brilliant shaped, the
largest cut diamond in the world), the Cullinan II (317 carats, cushion
shaped), Cullinan III (94 carats, pendelique shaped), Cullinan IV (63
carats, square-brilliant shaped), and many other smaller stones.
Cultured Pearl
A means of duplicating the organic process of natural pearl creation invented
by Kokichi Mikimoto circa 1893. A tiny irritant like a bead, grain of
sand, or a piece of mother of pearl from another mollusk can be inserted
into the opening of an oyster or mollusk. This irritant becomes the nucleus
of a pearl once that mollusk secretes a lustrous substance (nacre) to
cover the foreign body. An oyster or mollusk can take between five to
seven years to secrete enough nacre to produce a jewelry quality pearl.
Cupid's darts
Cupid's Darts is another name for rutilated quartz.
Curb Link Chain
A chain composed of oval-shaped links that are twisted and often diamond-cut
so they lie flat.
Cushion Cut
A stone that is cut to look like a square or rectangle with rounded edges.
The cut is usually multi-faceted to give the highest possible light refraction.
Cut
One of the 4 C's of diamond grading, "cut" refers to the shape
and style of a polished gem. How a diamond is cut has a lot to do with
the stone's fire and brilliance. A diamond that is cut either too shallow
or too deep will not be as brilliant as a properly cut diamond.
Cut Beads
Cut beads are glass beads that have been faceted. This process makes the
bead reflect and refract more light.
Cut glass
Any glass whose surface has been cut into facets, grooves and depressions
by a large, rotating wheel. Wheel cutting glass was developed in the 8th
century BC, but the technique of faceting wasn't perfected until the 18th
century in England. Although cutting glass is a costly and difficult process,
the brilliant effects are extraordinary!
Cut Steel
Cut steel is steel that is cut with a huge number of facets and then riveted
to a plate of steel (or other metal). It was widely used in jewelry during
the late 18th century, including shoe buckles, buttons, bracelet, necklaces,
earrings, hair ornaments, and as a setting for cameos. Early in the 19th
century, cut steel quality diminished and was stamped out in strips instead
of being individually cut and riveted.
Cut Stones
Common cuts include the brilliant cut, old European cut, emerald cut,
radiant cut, rose cut, step cut, pendelique cut. Mixed cuts in which the
style of the facets above and below the girdle are different. Other, more
unusual cuts, are know as fantasy cuts (like the heart cut).
CZ
See cubic zirconia.
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